Sunday, September 30, 2007

Micky D's- Free internet for thirty minutes a day

For the price of a Diet Coke (amazingly they are about $5.00 US for 2 of them) we can sit in Micky D's and work for thirty minutes on free internet. So here we are, second day in a row. I spent most of my minutes on updating the photos. I should have written the blog entry off-line and posted during the thrity minutes. So, tomorrow will be longer.

It is dreary and rainy today so we are looking for the fitness club to work out. We will let you know how it turns out.

So long on a wet Sunday in Interlakken.
Deanne

Saturday, September 29, 2007

Sttending a Cow Concert in the Outdoor Auditorium

On one of our train rides through the gorgeous Swiss countryside Mike fell in love with the strip of towns between Interlaken and Lucerne. These little towns were all similar; well maintained, peak-roofed homes surrounding a church with a steep roof and tall spire built on the tallest hill around set beside the crystal aquamarine glacier water of a lake. For whatever reason, Lungern struck a cord with him and we decided to stay there for a few days. Mike got on-line and found accommodations in the Rossli Hotel for significantly less than our big city accommodations, so a few days ago we set off for Lungern.

It was a long trip, with four separate train rides and the changes in between. When we finally arrived in the tiny town of Lungern we were ready. We were standing near the doors to the train with our baggage ready to alight when the train stopped. Unfortunately it was difficult to tell which side of the train was the right side to get off, so after pushing hard against the door I finally got my side open and we threw off the bags. Unfortunately it was the wrong side of the train and we were out of sight of the conductor who had no idea we were trying to get off. So, by the time I got off and the bags followed, the doors closed before Mike could get off. They blew the whistle to take off and we forced the door open as he slid out of the train. I know you have guessed the rest. He bruised up the foot attached to the recently healed leg. In fact, his left foot is now a horrible shade or purple that matches the shade the leg was until days ago. He is jinxed.

The train station is on a hill. In fact, the entire town in on the side of a mountain. The train comes over the pass and Lungern is the first town it hits. The town begins at the train station and works it's way down the hill to the lakeside, then back up the mountain on the other side. When I attach the photos you will get a sense of it. We set off downhill toward town to find the Hotel Rossli. This is a small town so it was easy to find. Attached to a restaurant, this family run place was in the midst of lunch time when we arrived, so after waiting for Mom to finish up with some card-playing lunch guests she checked us in. Our room was in the chalet hotel facing the lake. With a wall of windows and a beautiful deck we had a great view of the mountains and lake. Beautiful.

We spent the next few days walking the nature trails around town and enjoying the peace and quiet of this little village. On one walk that I went on alone I walked past a building with opaque glass windows on some garage doors. It was clear that there was heavy equipment inside, red in color, so perhaps a fire department. Later, I revised the guess to be snow removal equipment. As I continued walking it was apparent that the second floor of this building was an elementary school. It was lunch time so I was able to see all of the kids leaving for lunch. I heard a horn player inside practicing (in need of much more practice). After walking up into the hills I heard the most amazing "band" of bells, cymbals, etc. I wondered where it was coming from and kept walking to find the source. Imagine my surprise when I looked down to the field below and saw that I was listening to the bells around the neck of the cows. Some huge (maybe 16 inch diameter) and others smaller, they rang at different pitches making the most wonderful music that echoes through the valley up into the hills where I was walking. A cow concert!

We are sitting in McDonald's using 30 minutes of free internet before it runs out, so I have to go. I will work on another entry tonight that I can post quickly tomorrow when we return to McDonald's.

Bye for now. Deanne

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Success at Everyday errands

When you live somewhere a long time you learn to operate efficiently and effectively with little conscious thought to day-to-day activities. When you move you are forced to start over and find a new grocer, a new dentist, a barber that gets it just right and the best place to get your favorite dinner. When you move every two or three days, without the thought that you will be home in two weeks so haircuts and dental appointments can wait, you have to learn some tricks to figure out how to learn these things quickly. Not learning them means you have shaggy hair for awhile, you buy your bottles of water at the tourist shops paying four times the price you would pay at the grocery store if you could just find it, and you can't get fresh fruit for breakfast so you will just have to settle for the fruit cocktail they serve. When you combine the need to learn these things quickly with the language difficulties and the cultural difficulties it is more complex. Does the place that looks like a hairdresser cut men's hair? Will you look like a complete moron if you go in and ask?

As much as we love our suitcases, we did have one mishap. While yanking them on and off trains every other day has not hurt them too bad, one hauling effort caused the foot rest on my bag to fall off. It didn't grossly effect its functionality, but it did fall over rather than stand up. We saved the leg, but the screws holding it on were broken. This happened two weeks ago, and we have been quite unsuccessful at finding a hardware store in which to buy screws, nuts and the hardware to use them to repair my suitcase. So, we have devised a two person team effort to make our way. One of us watches the suitcases, holding mine up, while the other goes in the information office, the restroom, or the shop. Then, while out for a walk today Mike spotted a hardware shop on a side street in Zermatt. We have not found a hardware store in bigger cities than this with lots of asking, so imagine how surprised and excited we were to find this old fashioned neighborhood hardware store. We found the equipment we thought we needed and with a promise that they would trade anything that didn't work for replacements, we left the hardware store to empty my suitcase and try to put the foot back on. We installed the foot successfully and considered that a win!

As to haircuts. Barbers are hard to find in some countries and easier in others. Spain seems to hide them but they are very clearly barber shops in Italy. Mike got a great haircut in Orvietto, by using sign language to make his requests. How do you explain how long to make the sides, or to trim the beard if you and the barber don't speak the same language? All I can say is I think the sign language worked really well and we may try it when we get home.

I have explained grocery stores in an earlier blog. The groceries are not surrounded by giant parking lots. They are in tiny side streets, with only a small doorway going in, usually to a set of stairs down to a basement, but sometimes winding to the interior of a building. There is nowhere to park- everyone walks to the market and buys only what they can carry or put in their rolling basket to get home. If you don't know the name of the grocery stores in that country you would have a very hard time finding the stores. So, you look for people carrying plastic grocery bags and you walk in the direction they are coming from. In most of the countries we have visited the groceries are quite small, think the size of a convenience store with shelves closer together, a meat and fish counter and a small produce area. In some groceries you weigh your own produce and put a scan tag on it from the scale. In other groceries you are not allowed to touch the produce, instead you point out what you want and they bag and weigh it for you. Swiss grocery stores are the largest and most beautiful stores we have seen so far. Think Whole Foods. Big, well stocked and much greater variety than any other country we have seen. For example, yesterday I was able to buy almonds and cashews in the grocery instead of buying them in the health food store as we had to do in Italy.

Laundry facilities continue to be elusive, although we have decided that when we have found them they are so expensive and time consuming that doing our own laundry in the hotel is preferable. We have a routine now. The day we check in to the hotel is laundry day. Mike strings the line and we each wash and hang our laundry. Whatever isn't dry by morning shower is put on hangers in the closet until time to leave. We left some of our clothes in Florence in the hotel we stayed during the kick-off of school for Caitie because we are going back there on our way home. So, with a limited wardrobe on hand, we have to wash clothes every two or three days and layer to keep warm. Yes, I am sick of Mike's orange shirts and he is sick of my white and black shirts.

It is raining and cold today. We have been out for a walk this morning, then again for lunch and a walk, but now we are in for a cozy afternoon. It is snowing in the mountains nearby, but here it is not quite cold enough for snow. But cold enough to keep us inside this afternoon.

We spoke to Caitie, Jonny and my mother over the past two days. It is wonderful to hear everyone's voices. Everybody is doing well. For those of you curious about how school is going for Caitie I can just say that she is ecstatic about her choice of NYU Florence. She loves the curriculum focused on the Renaissance, had made wonderful friends with her roommates, has been on a weekend trip to Rome to see the museums ans stay in a hostel, and is learning to speak Italian. Jonny has started school and he loves it too. Things are going well for everybody.

Love, Deanne

Monday, September 24, 2007

Roofing error in your favor- collect $200

Wahoo! Yipee! Yeah!

Imagine you select a hotel for two nights in the beautiful resort area of Zermatt, Switzerland that fits within your budget by skipping the niceties. Not horrible, but not great. 16 rooms for which the description mentions such amenities as heating. Continental breakfast described as a choice of drinks and a bread basket with jam. Got the picture? When the train got to Zermatt, after a stunning afternoon spent watching gorgeous mountain villages go by, we stopped at the information office for a map. I also asked for directions to our hotel. The information office staff told me that our hotel had a leaky roof and was closed so all of the guests were being diverted to the Butterfly Hotel. Not an auspicious start to the trip. We have been diverted to hotels in other cities like Venice and we usually had some surprises (like the bathroom is in the hall in Venice). So, he drew the map and told us we were even closer, as the Butterfly is just around the corner.

You may know that Zermatt allows no cars. Cargo and passengers are carried in electric carts. The taxis are electric carts as are the hotel conveyances, not that we have stayed in any hotel offering any conveyance but an elevator. When I gave Mike the news that we were changing hotels at the spot where he was waiting for me outside the information office, he turned around and pointed out a Butterfly Hotel vehicle waiting in the plaza outside the train station. We walked over, passed over our luggage, and enjoyed a FREE ride to our hotel. The Best Western sign outside was the second indication that life was looking up. You may not think much of Best Western, but from our point of view after staying at these family run independent places, a Best Western is a huge step up.

We were welcomed at the front desk with the story of the leaky roof and the comment that we were getting a "huge upgrade". No kidding. The lobby has carpet and silk drapes! There is an elevator up to our room. We have a small deck (well, we are not on the view side, but what can you expect?) The room doesn't have a refrigerator, but it has most of the other amenities you would expect in a nice hotel. A comfortable queen sized bed rather than two twins pushed together. TV with a few English speaking channels (CNN and BBC). A safe! This is absolutely wonderful and we are very appreciative of the fact that when you are tired, sometimes fate delivers a little luxury to make your life easier. We haven't figured out the monetary difference between the hotels, but it is probably safe to say we are saving at least $100 per night with our "huge upgrade". Yahoo.

So, we are two very happy campers who feel like we ought to stay indoors for the next two days just to enjoy our digs!

More about Zermatt in the next writing- including photos.
Deanne

Sunday, September 23, 2007

Even vacations need a weekend

We have figured out that life on the road, while as wonderful as you imagine, is tiring. We have found through a few months of experience that we need a "weekend" rest day about once a week. On that rest day we don't walk more than a few miles. We might catch up on CNN, but we are more likely to curl up with a book and read. Yesterday was our weekend rest day. After the meager pickings of our hotel breakfast we took a walk. This weekend the town of Lugano was having a cancer fund raising 5K and 10K which involved entertainers on stage in the main town square. We saw an Elvis impersonator who sang in English and spoke Italian between songs. The act following his was a traditional folk singing group of senior citizens, and he worked a nice little dance with the skirt and apron frocked, wooden shoed old ladies into his act. Mike and I sat in the plaza courtyard sipping some wine watching the show even though we had no idea what they were talking about. We watched the runners from the square when they ran by twice during the race and on a huge screen TV in the square that captured photos from various spots around town as they ran. In addition to our "participation" in the cancer run, we went for our own meandering walk through the civic park and along the waterfront. It was a glorious warm day to be out.

Mike is missing football. In fact, he is sitting beside me right now using the free internet time to check the scores of the games he missed yesterday. We called the boys about an hour before the game and were able to reach Jonny. He is so happy to be using his Dad's ticket for the season. He was with a group of his college friends who all collectively yelled, "We love you Jonny's Mom" to me on the phone. Of course, I loved hearing from my son and his friends. Jonny's Mom loves them too. He just read that the Seahawks won after being down with two minutes to go, so he is sure wishing he had seen the game. The price we are paying for this lifestyle....

Today we head off on the trains at 10:15 to Zermatt. We change trains several times, so it is a grueling train day. Zermatt should be lovely, though, and the train ride to get there is wonderful. I made this trip the summer I traveled alone to Europe after graduation from Cornell. It will be fun to see it again.

Later, Deanne

Saturday, September 22, 2007

A repeat hotel feels like home

We soo enjoyed our night at the Dante Hotel in Lugano. A guilty splurge the first time we stayed here a month ago, this time it was a welcome luxury. Those little things we took for granted when traveling in the past- comfortable bed with crisp linens and down duvets, hot showers, free mini-bar and free internet- feel so good after deprivation. We had a massive breakfast- their buffet is undoubtedly the best of our trip. Eggs are rarely served in Italy for breakfast, so the Swiss tray of scrambled eggs and the bowl of hard boiled eggs was welcome. Over time we have tried to cut back out the croissants at breakfast, but in Italy their version, the Cornetto is ubiquidous. The Dante has a big table of cut up fresh fruits and grilled vegetables. We had crusty whole wheat bread (the Italians haven't heard about whole wheat yet) with our eggs and fruit, and delicious Swiss yogurt. It was hard to leave the life of luxury, although during our free internet access we were able to book a cheaper room next door and the decidely less luxurious hotel sitting adjacent to the funiculur tunnel. We will save 50 swiss francs per night, and once we get used to the exchange rate, I'm sure that will be a welcome economy. We also have free internet, tapping into somebody that is providing us a chance to upload the photos (finally I got it to work) and update the blog.

It is about noon, and we are off for a walk. I will check in later.

Love, Deanne

Friday, September 21, 2007

We are heading north again

After four days of healing Mike's lag in Orvieto, we woke up this morning and decided to head north rather than south. Who is to explain the whims of travel? It was one of those magical fall days in which the air is clear and crisp and the colors of the sunshine are warm and inviting. We had been toying with a visit to the Amalfi coast, but the descriptions of stairs and hills were too much for the freshly rehabilitated leg, so we instead headed north to spend more time in some of our favorite places. So, southern Italy waits for another trip.

The first train out of Orvieto (the 10:33) was a local that took us back to Florence, where we put aside a big urge to call and check on Caitie and instead caught the 13:14 to Milano. In Milan, with a few minutes to spare, we caught the next train to Como. Dare-devils that we are, we arrived in Como at 5:30 PM with no hotel reservations and started phoning. We had been on the road since leaving our hotel at 9:00 for the walk to the Orvieto train station, so the resounding "completo" (Italian for full up) calls we heard was disheartening. finally, we decided to hop the next northbound train (6:30 PM bound for Zurich) and ride the half hour back to Lugano, where we were able to get a single night at the wonderful Dante hotel which we enjoyed so much the last time through Lugano. So, here we sit enjoying our free internet at the hotel. We are in Switzerland again, although it is a bit further than we expected. We had anticipated a few days in Como and then on to the Italian Dolomites, but instead we are in Switzerland. It feels comforting to be in such a nice hotel (this was our overall favorite for the entire trip) in a city and country that we enjoyed.

We had dinner at the same restaurant beside our hotel and relaxed for the first time today. Overall pleasure. Running out of time, so I am off. I will write again soon.
Love, Deanne
P.S. I am having some difficulties with photos that I have not figured out yet, but they will be coming shortly.